A new methodology to determine the area of the surface roller of breaking waves is proposed and verified. The method is based on two existing undertow formulations and determines the cross-shore variation of the surface roller with the use of the vertical distribution of the undertow and of the time variation of the wave surface elevation. A new set of data from a large-scale laboratory experiment over a fixed-bed barred beach has been considered. For the plunging breaker case, the measured values of the cross-sectional area of the surface roller from the present method compare favorably with the calculated values from three existing formulae. For the spilling breaker case the calculated values capture the cross-bar variation of the surface roller with an overestimation. Both breaker types present a linear decay of the surface roller over the bar at transects past the breaking point.

Surface roller of breaking waves at barred beaches

TOMASICCHIO, Giuseppe
2006-01-01

Abstract

A new methodology to determine the area of the surface roller of breaking waves is proposed and verified. The method is based on two existing undertow formulations and determines the cross-shore variation of the surface roller with the use of the vertical distribution of the undertow and of the time variation of the wave surface elevation. A new set of data from a large-scale laboratory experiment over a fixed-bed barred beach has been considered. For the plunging breaker case, the measured values of the cross-sectional area of the surface roller from the present method compare favorably with the calculated values from three existing formulae. For the spilling breaker case the calculated values capture the cross-bar variation of the surface roller with an overestimation. Both breaker types present a linear decay of the surface roller over the bar at transects past the breaking point.
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Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: https://hdl.handle.net/11587/103265
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